I can understand that many people have never heard of malakoffs in other parts of the world but surprisingly even in Switzerland they are not well known. Maybe it’s because each of the 26 Cantons has their own food specialty and each specialty is so amazingly unique and delicious they don’t need to look elsewhere. This in my opinion is one exception to the rule. This delicious specialty of Canton Vaud and more specifically the Communes (towns) of Luins and Vinzel are incredibly tasty and need to be shared.
When I sat down at the Auberge De Luins (www.aubergedeluins.ch) I was well aware of the Malakoff specialty, but I didn’t quite understand what they really were. Everything I read and everyone I spoke to had a different interpretation of what the ingredients were and how it was prepared.
Before I could open my menu to see the different kinds of malakoffs and what special accompaniments I would be indulging in, my server came over, pleasantly greeted me and immediately asked if I would like a malakoff with salad. I quickly said yes but then inquired about portion size, how many came with the meal, did I need other items, but before I could get my concerns out she stopped me and said, “I can only bring one at a time...they must be hot when served.” I closed my menu and knew I was in good hands. No where does it state that this was a buffet or all you can eat, or even looked like a stuff-yourself kind of place. In the US they make every effort to capitalize on such an amazing lunch special, but we’re in Switzerland and most everything is very understated. While waiting for my lunch, eight other tables filled up around me and to my surprise and joy the only thing the server asked was “malakoff salad oui?” There were businessmen, retirees, even two street sweepers (I know this because I saw them get out of their trucks), and no tourists (ok, maybe one…moi). These were all good signs that I was about to experience a quality meal ...one specialty to be ordered, no one was asking to see a menu, different people from all walks of life, and outside seating.
Indeed all the people around me were spot on, because my hot gooey malakoff was perfect...no fan fare, no special sauce, nothing to hide what it really is (a beautiful gruyere cheese bomb) and they just kept coming. I could only manage to eat three, but those with heartier appetites could add a few more to their plate. The salad was a shredded cabbage with lemony mustard vinaigrette that was surprisingly refreshing...sure, the whole meal was white, um, make that very white, but the salad was the perfect complement to this glorious fried cheese concoction.
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In the bowl is Gruyere cheese, milk, eggs, mayo, white pepper, and bread crumbs |
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The mixture is placed on top of a toast round |
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Chef |
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Fried in peanut oil, which is rarely used in Switzerland
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No additional breading...only a few uncomplicated ingredients that keep it simple and tasty |
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